Mk.II F1D template sets have arrived. Pricing under the Misc. tab.
Made to fit Ray Harlan’s tailboom form and 1/4″ round mandrel for motorsticks. Stub allows for easy and consistent plugin tailbooms. Have added parts for 5/16″ motorstick and stub.
Arc airfoil template set for F1D – Includes spacers for the rib cutter and 2 separately sized 3% arcs for prop ribs.
The tailboom jigs are made to fit Ray Harlan’s current tailboom form. (0.25 ==> 0.106″)
Lay it on the wood, cut all around it, insert a pen (I use the Sakura Pigma Micron 005) in the three holes on each end.
This creates markings for boron at 12, 4:30 and 7:30.
If you typically use only two, you can use the seam as 6 and the middle one for 12.
Some pics follow. The material is clear plexiglass – I haven’t removed the covering so the pictures would be easier to see.
Small end of jig next to balsa sheet
Insert pen into holes to make alignment dots
Dots for boron alignment on larger end
Dots for boron alignment
The wood will now cover the form completely making it easier for gluing.
Wood goes completely around Harlan form
Once glued up, glue one end of the pre-glued boron at the thick end according to the marking. When dry, tape down one end of the boron to the table with new blue tape. Pull the boron taut, dip your brush in acetone and apply lightly. Attaching it should take less than a minute. When done, remove the tape and start of the next boron.
Aligning and attaching boron at larger end
Attaching one end of boron with blue tape
Getting ready to pull taut after alignment.
When finished you can break the boron off as follows.
Some boron bits can be left behind – Luckily the pre-coat with Ambroid normally keeps them attached like this. Touch it with some blue tape to remove it.
This is held on by the glue
Broken boron removed with blue tape
Propblocks 